Please read our recommendations at the bottom of these instructions!
Step 1 – Clean your piece
You don’t have to do a lot of prep before you start painting.
Clean your piece of dust and wax using a degreasing cleaner. Liquid Klean Strip Sander Deglosser is recommended.
No sanding is necessary for paint adhesion. If there are rough surfaces on your piece, you will need to sand them smooth if you want a smooth finish.
Always clean off any mildew or loose paint.
Step 2 – Hardware
For some pieces you may want to paint over the hardware and then sand lightly to reveal some of the original finish.
For other pieces you may want to remove the hardware, then clean it or paint it and put it back on.
Step 3 – Paint
Shake your paint!
Choose a brush based on your project size and finish wanted. Artist brushes or other quality painting brushes are great for a smooth finish. Use a chip brush for a rougher textured finish.
Apply in thin coats. Usually not more than 2 are needed. No sanding needed between coats.
Wipe outer rim of paint container before replacing lid. If the lid gets stuck, run the edge under hot water for about one minute.
Step 4 – Distress
Use fine grit sandpaper or wet cloth. Sanding can be done at any time after the paint is dry.
Wet the cloth with water and wipe the edges of your piece to reveal the original finish. You can paint your piece with 2 different colors and wipe off only the top coat to reveal the first painted layer. This is best done as soon as the paint is dry and not more than an hour later.
An antiquing glaze can be added at this point if you are not going to use one of the antiquing waxes. Sealing with a water-based polyurethane is recommended over the glaze.
Step 5 – Seal
WAX: Apply a thin coat of clear wax with a chip brush or cloth. Let dry overnight and buff with a cloth.
Always apply clear wax to your piece before applying the antiquing brown or black wax.
POLYURETHANE: Instead of wax you can seal your piece with polyurethane for a tougher finish. Always use water-based. That means it can be cleaned up with soap and water. Oil-based poly will turn yellow!
Please read these recommendations for Polyurethane over White Paint
Vintage furniture from the 1940’s and 1950’s were often finished in stain that contained aniline dyes, which cast a pinkish bleed-through under light paint, especially bright white.
Water-based polyurethane is the only one recommended over chalk paint.
If you wish to paint pine or mahogany with white paint some precautions should be followed:
Tests your complete painting procedure on an inside door or under the piece, somewhere that you can easily correct if necessary. That means clean, paint and topcoat the test area before proceeding to paint the entire piece.
If you find that your piece yellows after top coating with polyurethane, try another test area by applying a stain blocker before painting the entire piece.
You can also try painting a base coat of gray or brown, then painting it white.
We recommend using darker colors over vintage furniture made from pine or mahogany.
*Paint and finishes should be stored between 50̊°F/10°C and 80°F/26°C
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